Saandan are the Marathi cousins of Sannas and Idlis; along the Konkan coast of Maharashtra, these are made by both, the Hindu and the Muslim communities. The Hindu ones are usually the “instant” varie…

Saandan are the Marathi cousins of Sannas and Idlis; along the Konkan coast of Maharashtra, these are made by both, the Hindu and the Muslim communities. The Hindu ones are usually the “instant” variety, and are infused with seasonal ripe fruit puree such as mango or jackfruit–definitely an acquired taste, but with a drizzle of ghee, they’re an excellent breakfast or teatime treat. The Konkani Muslim variant is fermented, and is eaten with a delectable curry called Mutton Shikori on festive occasions. This version, I am partial to. Not only is the flavour profile nuanced with the mild tang of fermentation, the sweetness of the coconut milk and the starch of rice but the preparation is also technically interesting. Bread making enthusiasts may now be familiar with the Tangzhong method–where a roux of flour and water is cooked to a gelatinous consistency before adding to the bread dough, resulting in a soft crumb; for the Saandan, too, a roux of coconut milk and rice rava is cooked and added to the rest of the batter. This aids fermentation and yields a pillow-soft Saandan. Sannas, typically made in Goa and Managalore, on the other hand, use toddy. I am constantly amazed at how cuisines are so like dialects–they change every few kilometres and yet, they are the same.

I spoke about the fermented Saandan and shared a recipe at the #DesiCultures conference recently; there’s also a detailed recipe in my book, #Pangat, if you’d like to try it.

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